Monday, 30 October 2017

Energetic Knoxville, TN, fuels a weekend of music, food and art

Every time I visit Knoxville, Tennessee, I am energized, no matter the season. This would certainly please the planners of the 1982 World's Fair, the theme of which was "Energy Turns the World."

Left behind from the fair on the Knoxville skyline to greet visitors and residents is the 266-foot-tall Sunsphere, topped by a gleaming bronze ball. An observation deck on the fourth floor offers free admission and 360-degree views of World's Fair Park, downtown, the University of Tennessee campus, the Tennessee River and the Smoky Mountains.

Our base for the weekend was a block away at the Sheraton Four Points. Near the Sunsphere is the Knoxville Museum of Art, a three-story Tennessee marble showcase of talented artists from East Tennessee, the nation and around the globe.

This trip, it was the famed Bijou Theatre that lured me back to Knoxville to introduce my best friend from Myrtle Beach, South Carolina, to my favorite indie rock singer from the '90s, Edwin McCain.

We made time before the show to sample the delicious food in the cozy Bistro at the Bijou next door. Owner Martha Boggs creates three seasonal menus each year and schedules live jazz three times a week.

The Bijou Theatre seats about 700 and is one of the most respected venues for live performances in town. Built in 1817 as Lamar House, it was a Civil War hospital, brothel, genteel Southern hotel and vaudeville stage.

Understandably, ghostly spirits call the Bijou home. Up the block is an inviting statue, The Oarsman, by David Phelps, submerged in brick, seemingly lost in another world.

My previous trip to Knoxville was as a guest when the University of Kentucky played UT at Neyland Stadium, one of the largest stadiums in the in the country. The sea of 100,000 orange-clad Volunteer football fans was intimidating.

I learned the nickname derives from the Mexican War era. Congress asked for 2,800 men to report to duty, and 30,000 Tennesseans showed up. An impressive turn out.

On Volunteer Boulevard, we found an equally impressive 500-million-year-old Knox dolomite boulder. Unearthed in 1966, students have been painting it over thousands of times since with profanities, proposals and school spirit. Not far away is Cumberland Avenue, aka The Strip, with restaurants galore.

Sports fans would also appreciate the Women's Basketball Hall of Fame, honoring, among other greats of the sport, Pat Summitt, the legendary coach of the Lady Vols. Summitt, a silver medal Olympian, who, in 1976, earned a gold medal as the 1984 U.S. Olympic coach, later became the winningest NCAA basketball coach of all time.

Knoxville offers much for outdoor enthusiasts, with parks and greenways for walks, hikes and cycling. At Ijam's Nature Center, you can rent a canoe, kayak or SUP (stand-up paddleboard).

There, you'll find Navitat, Knoxville's tree-canopy park with zip lines, bridges, nets, tunnels and more. Take Fido along to this very pet-friendly city, which boasts more than two dozen outdoor art installations.

We drove to Calhoun's On The River, one of my favorite spots for a true taste of Tennessee. Calhoun's boasts the best ribs in America. Enjoy the window views, or eat on the deck overlooking the Tennessee River.

We walked off our lunch in adjacent Volunteer Landing Park, watching rowers glide under the bridge and enjoying the historical markers, swings and splash pads that delight kids in hot weather. The Star of Knoxville, a classic paddle wheeler, departs for sightseeing cruises on the other side of Calhoun's.

That afternoon, we found Blue Slip Winery at the historic Southern Railway Station. Tastings and a small restaurant are complemented by event space in the station and on the parked antique train cars. In tanks by the train tracks, Knoxville's first winery makes more than 20 Tennessee-grown wines. Try the River City Red.

At another depot, in University Commons, passengers can begin an exciting 90-minute excursion train ride on the Three Rivers Rambler. The Rambler runs 11 miles in rain, snow or shine, offering seasonal tours, such as the Christmas Lantern Express. Expect festive decor, fabulous views, hot cocoa, gingerbread and, of course, Santa.

Our shopping instincts kicked in as we strolled the Emporium Arts Center, Mast General Store and boutiques on Gay Street, posing with some of the outdoor statues.

Market Square was bustling. A violinist responded to my applause by placing his instrument on my shoulder and my hand on the bow until we coaxed a few notes.

We dined at the Blue Coast Grill on Market Square. Executive Chef Curtis Bates did not disappoint, presenting new American cuisine, with fresh local ingredients and an array of flavors. I paired my Crab Alfredo with a local craft beer.

Across the square is The Tomato Head, a great place for soups, salads, sandwiches, vegan plates, pizzas and desserts. Committed to enriching the lives of the less fortunate, this institution contributes an abundance to the city and showcases artists, poets and musicians.

If I had just a bit more time (and energy), I would have visited the Tennessee Theatre, which, this winter, hosts "Elf: The Musical"; "The Nutcracker," by the Moscow Ballet; The Oak Ridge Boys Christmas Tour; "Kinky Boots"; "Swinging Christmas" and more.

Across the street, the East Tennessee History Center, through compelling imagery, artifacts and recordings, exhibits, touches on the Cherokee, slavery, the Civil War, country music origins, logging, mining and the Oak Ridge National Laboratory.

This winter, activities in Knoxville abound. There is ice skating on the square, the Window Wonderland's Peppermint Trail; the Tour de Lights, for festive cyclists; The WIVK Christmas Parade; and New Year's Eve on Market Square, to name a few.

Why not warm up by sampling local craft brews at 12 stops on Knoxville's Ale Trail? There's always the free trolley system to carry you back to your hotel. Look for the popular Up On The Rooftop displays on the way.

For more information on Knoxville, go to www.visitknox ville.com.


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