Multi-talented chef, author, and "cooking Contessa" Enrica Rocca sat down with Gotham to discuss her favorite New York cuisine, how she would change the city's restaurant scene, and why she doesn't think of chefs as "rising stars," in advance of her James Beard Foundation dinner.
Enrica Rocca.
Craving a trip to Italy this summer but can't fit it into your schedule? You won't even have to travel outside of city limits to get a taste of authentic cuisine. World-traveling chef, cookbook author, and culinary instructor Enrica Rocca will host a special event next week at The Beard House called Return to Venice (June 24; members, $130; public, $170; tickets on jamesbeard.org). Dinner guests will be treated to Rocca's Venetian-inspired specialties, like asparagus and parmesan served with a white truffle oil dip, and scallop paired with bronte pistachio sauce.
We caught up with Rocca before the event to find out some of her NYC foodie favorites and what she's cooking up in the future.
What is your favorite place to eat in New York, and what do you order there? ENRICA ROCCA: Every time I come to New York, I discover more restaurants and more places to go and enjoy great food. I have a great passion for Asian and Middle Eastern food so I always go and explore those types of restaurants. Last time I was in New York I discovered Korea Town and the restaurant Kang Ho Dong Baekjeong, which I fell in love with—simple, friendly, and with amazing food! I went back for lunch twice and it will probably be the first place I go to this time! All you need to order is your meat, the rest just comes... salads, various local specialties, some of the best corn I ever had, and a kind of frittata cooked on the side of the barbecue, which is to die for. We make decisions all day long so it is relaxing to go to a place where someone else just brings you good food without you having to choose.
In your opinion, who is a rising star chef to watch in New York?ER: I don't like talking about chefs as "rising stars"...chefs should not be stars, but simply people who love food, love the products they work with, take the [time] to meet and talk to those who produce the foods they cook, select it with seriousness, and share all this passion with those who dine in their restaurants. The work they do is important as they not only feed people's stomachs but they also feed their souls.
If you could have dinner with any New York chef, dead or alive, who would it be? ER: Chef Masa (Masayoshi Takayama), as I truly believe that there is no other country in the world, or chefs, that respect and cherish the world of food as much as Japan.
What New York City neighborhood do you think has the best food scene? ER: I honestly think there is good and bad in all neighborhoods. For atmosphere, I would definitely choose the Meatpacking District, but it can be challenging to even get a drink! It once took me two hours to find a bar to have a gin and tonic! And there are some amazing Asian restaurants—one I especially like is Spice Market.
What are you most looking forward to about the James Beard Foundation (JBF) event? ER: I love the atmosphere of the house. [It's a] small kitchen but superbly equipped. Incredibly efficient staff and such a homey feel! I love cooking at JBF because, not being a U.S. chef, I don't go to make a name [for] myself or to compete for awards, but rather to impart passion for authentic Italian food and culture and to offer a true experience to such an educated public. It is thrilling and fun at the same time. As this is my second time, I will enjoy it even more. I know how it works so it will be even more relaxing and fun!
What kind of food does New York need more of? ER: I think that what New York—and the U.S. in general—needs more of is access to small producers and less mass-produced ingredients. It is really challenging to find quality ingredients at affordable prices; sometimes really challenging to find them at any price! I am probably spoiled as quality food is fairly easily available in Italy if one looks for it, but in the U.S. it can be a real challenge!
Recipe: Fennel and Blood Orange SaladIngredients:
2 fennels2 blood oranges2 Tablespoons of chives or spring onion1 Tablespoon of mint1 Tablespoon of olives4 Tablespoons of extra virgin olive oilAdd sea salt and black pepper to taste
Directions:
Remove the peel and pith of the blood oranges by cutting off half an inch from the stem and opposite end. Rest the orange on one of its flat sides, then cut the sides and start where the white pith meets the orange flesh. Cut down around one side of the orange to remove the skin and pith and expose the flesh. Repeat this around the whole orange.
Cut the peeled orange in half and lay the halves so the white line is facing upwards. Make three cuts: to the right of the white line, to the left of the white line and behind the white line.
Shave the fennel and drop the thin slices into ice water for a few minutes to crisp. Drain the fennel slices and pat dry on paper towels. Place pieces of orange and fennel slices on a serving dish.
Finely chop the spring onions and add the olives, spring onions, mint, oil, salt, and pepper to the oranges and fennel. Serve cold.
Source: Italian Chef Enrica Rocca on What Kind of Food the US Needs & Her Upcoming Event at The Beard House
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